Category Archives: Riding Guides

Edge 510, 810 and 1000 compared

Edge 510, 810 and 1000
At Cycle Art, we regularly get customers asking the difference between the 3 top end Garmin GPS computers. In this article, our resident technology geek takes us through the features of the latest Edge computers and explains what it means for you the cyclist.

Edge 510Edge 510
Garmin’s Edge 500 has been an extremely popular model, and indeed is their best selling cycle computer. It packs in a myriad of features, has a long battery life, and has a reasonably small footprint meaning it is ideal for most riders. With the Edge 510, Garmin gave their mid-range best seller an overhaul, giving it their new touch screen operating system, connected features, a colour screen, and a redesigned outer casing. Based on features for price, this is more than likely going to be their biggest seller again.

The new version of the firmware running on the Edge 510 changes the graphical interface users will have become used to on previous Edge cycle computers. The new touch screen interface allows the user to swap between bikes and activities in a much quicker and more intuitive way, simply by pressing left and right arrows on the home screen until the relevant bike and activity is selected. For instance, if you had a training bike that you used on a turbo that had speed/cadence sensor, and a race bike that had a power meter, you can now flip between the bikes very quickly, rather than rooting down into sub menus as per the Edge 500. Similarly, multiple activity profiles allows different data to be shown on the screen, and it is now much quicker to choose the activity you require. Once you have the activity and bike chosen, you press “Ride” and the correct data pages and bike information is displayed.

Another big feature of the 510, as with all of the new connected Garmin devices, is the ability to pair (via Bluetooth) your Garmin to your phone. With the 510, this allows live tracking (so a loved one can see where you are on their PC – this could be a good OR bad thing), weather updates, and automatic updating to Garmin Connect once you complete a ride. As with all Bluetooth devices, real world usage is only as good as the Bluetooth link your phone allows, but mostly this works well once the Garmin is paired up to the phone.

Battery life on the 510 is a claimed 20 hours, but as with all electronic devices this is subject to actual usage.

The main points to note on the 510 is that it doesn’t have maps, nor does it have the ability to add them (it has no SD Card slot). It is, of course, ANT+ compatible, so it communicates with compatible heart rate straps, cadence/speed sensors and power meters. It also has the ability to act as a remote control for Garmin’s VIRB cameras.

Another important feature is the fact that the 510 communicates with GLONASS, which is essentially Russia’s alternative to GPS. This means it uses both GLONASS and GPS, meaning your Garmin picks up the satellites in seconds, and has a far better chance of maintaining signal even in heavily wooded or built up areas.

Like the 810 and 1000, the 510 has the ability to download GPX files so you can follow a pre-planned course or route.

The Edge 510 starts at B#249 for the unit only.

Edge 810Edge 810
The 810 is far from a larger version of the 510, which is invariably what most people see when they first begin comparing. The 810 builds on the features and usability of the 510, but has a few tricks up it’s sleeve.

On face value, the obvious difference is screen size – a 1.4″ x 2.2″ display with 160 x 240 pixels over the 510’s 1.7″ x 1.4″ display with 176 x 220 pixels. The knock on effect is the 810 obviously has a bigger form factor, which may put some people off.

However, the biggest difference is the 510’s mapping. Included on the device is a basemap, and it has an SD card slot allowing expansion to more complex maps or maps for different regions than the UK.

The 810 is also works quicker when flicking through menus, and it’s touch screen is slightly more responsive than the 510.

As with the 510, the 810 is ANT+ compatible and uses Bluetooth to communicate with smart phones.

One major thing to note is that unlike the 510 and the 1000, the 810 does not use the GLONASS satellites, and is restricted to just GPS. Battery life is a claimed 17 hours.

The Edge 810 starts at B#319 for the unit only.

Edge 1000Edge 1000
The Edge 1000 is Garmin’s latest super computer. It’s massive 1.5″ x 2.5″ screen is the first thing you notice, followed by just how much this Garmin actually looks and feels like a premium smart phone. Unlike the rubber feeling 510 and the grey plastic 810, the 1000 has more glass and a gloss black surround, with silver metal buttons. Another nice cosmetic touch is the brushed metal plate in the rear of the unit with the Garmin Edge logo etched into it – something you’ll never see but does demonstrate the premium nature of the 1000. To the rear, the unit has a rubber cover that peels back in two places, one to reveal an SD card slot, the other the USB port (which interestingly enough is a micro USB port unlike the mini USB ports used on the other Edge computers – this allows for greater compatibility as more and more phones and devices are using micro USB). Even the packaging on the 1000 is more upmarket – think Apple iPhone versus a cheaper smart phone.

In addition to the upmarket look and feel, bigger screen and impressive packaging, the 1000 flexes it’s muscle in several ways. Most significantly, 1000 comes loaded with a cycle map of Europe – and these maps have free updates for the life of the device. Additionally, the 1000 can be used either landscape or portrait – allowing said mapping to be viewed in a more natural landscape format. Another big feature the 1000 has is Garmin Connect Segments – essentially Garmin’s own version of Strava. Finally, the Edge 1000 is compatible with Shimano’s Di2 electronic shifting, displaying which gear you are in on screen. The 1000 further simplifies the menu system and features a far more intuitive way of connecting with ANT+ devices – rather than pairing devices for a specific bike, the Edge 1000 features a sensor pool where all your connected sensors are stored and the Edge 1000 just picks the devices you are using.

The 1000 has all the same ANT+ and Bluetooth connectivity as the 810 and 510 for compatible ANT+ devices and pairing with a smart phone for live tracking, and retains the GLONASS satellite support of the 510 that is missing from the 810. The 1000 also has Wi-fi support, so data can automatically be synced with Garmin Connect at the end of a ride. You can also share your data with other Edge 1000 users.

New Garmin sensorsOne final feature is the re-designed speed/cadence sensor. The standard GSC 10 sensor that has been around for years now is replaced with 2 new units, one for speed only and one for cadence only. The speed unit wraps around the rear wheel hub (so it can be used on a turbo trainer) and the cadence unit is attached to the non drive side crank and uses an accelerometer (like a phone uses to sense screen orientation) to measure pedal revolutions.

Battery life is a claimed 15 hours, but again, this will be subject to real world usage.

The 1000 starts at B#439 for the unit only.

In conclusion…
Garmin Edge 510 – buy if you want a small, easy to use unit ideal for racing, training and all day riding

Garmin Edge 810 – buy if you want the features of a 510 with the added option of basic navigation, a bigger screen, and slightly more responsive usage

Garmin Edge 1000 – buy if you want full on navigation, the ultimate training and racing companion, or just like to have the latest piece of technology

Autumn Riding – the crossover between Summer and Winter

Autumn LeavesWe all know winter is on the way. You donbt need a fancy iPhone app to see that the nights are drawing in, the temperatures are dropping, and the weather is changing. However, it isnbt actually winter yet b so what do you do differently in Autumn to Winter?

This time of year the temperatures are still reasonably mild, especially in the middle of the day. We donbt need Winter clothes just yet. Winter clothes tend to be heavily insulated, extremely thick, and actually far too warm for this time of year. In particular, winter gloves are bulky and heavily insulated.

Dress Accordingly
We call this btemperature managementb. Just because winter is coming, doesnbt mean you need to leave the house dressed like a cycling yeti every day. Similarly, just because yesterday was mild, it doesnbt mean today will be too. Top tips:

b” Dress to be slightly chilly as you leave and youbll be warm after 10-15 minutes
b” Check the weather forecast the night before
b” Get your kit ready the night before
b” Check the weather forecast again in the morning
b” Use an external thermometer and check it before setting off
b” Have a wide range of cycling clothing for all eventualities
b” Look after your Autumn kit and you can use it in Spring
b” If you are riding to work and there is no where to dry your cycling gear, consider a second set for riding home in

The ideal set up for this time of year would be:

b” Long sleeve base layer
b” Long sleeve windproof layer
b” A gilet
b” Tights
b” Underhelmet Cap
b” Socks & Overshoes
b” Long finger gloves

Base Layer
Base Layers
This time of year, layers are key. As the temperature is changeable, you remove or add layers depending on the weather. A good base layer is a fantastic place to start as this keeps you warm but also wicks away the sweat. It will also act as the foundation to rest of your kit.

Long Sleeves & Tights
Unless youbve booked a training camp to Mallorca, itbs definitely time to put the short sleeve jerseys and bib shorts away until next year. Keeping your arms and legs warm is key to avoiding injury. Cold legs will result in pulled muscles and unpleasant riding. According to Doctor Andy Pruitt of the Boulder Centre of Sports Medicine b bbelow 18 degrees cover your kneesb. See what he did there?

Leg, Arm and Knee Warmers
As winter tights might be too warm and shorts too cold, a good set of leg warmers or knee warmers is probably a good idea. You may also be riding with a jersey and a gilet, in which case arm warmers would be a good idea too.

Socks and overshoes
Socks alone will not keep your feet completely warm, especially if you are prone to poor circulation or cold extremities in the first place. Something like a Mavic Thermo sock is a good starting place, with a good knitted overshoe such as the Castelli Belgium Booties.

Long finger. No question. Riding without gloves does not make you hard. Nor do is make you bEurob. Nor is it clever. As the bodybs temperate drops, it reduces circulation to your extremities in order to keep blood flowing to your major organs. If you fall off (which is more likely on slippery roads) your hand will have nothing to protect it. Webd recommend a good Autumn/Spring glove such as the Mavic Spring Race glove or the Castelli Lightness glove.

Pronounced bjeelayb (French for bvestb), this is one of the most useful pieces of clothing in the cyclistbs kit bag. On milder days, the gilet is perfect for the start of the ride until it warms up, and then it can be removed and put in the jersey pocket. It is also good for putting on when descending after a long climb. Mavic and Castelli both offer a good range of gilets but the pick of the bunch has to be the Castelli Gabba. If itbs good enough for Dan Martin and David Millarb&

Underhelmet Cap
Keeping your head warm is important b cold ears and head can leave you in pain all day, and the peak will keep the rain, low sun and sweat out of your eyes. It is also easily removed if you get too warm. Speaking of the low sun b be careful as it hampers drivers visibility.

Lightweight Jacket
At this time of year, jackets donbt need to be warm enough to go snowboarding in. They do have to be windproof, and preferably waterproof. It is also a good idea to carry a waterproof shell that can be packed away into a jersey pocket.

Be safe b be seen
If you are commuting, this time of year still requires a high vis jacket in a bright colour such as yellow or orange. By Winter, it will probably be dark for your commute and a night vision jacket will be more appropriate. These tend to have more reflective panels on that a standard high vis, and light up in driverbs headlights.

Lezyne Zecto Drive
It might not be dark yet, but it can get overcast, misty and dull, and if you have a puncture or mechanical, which delays your ride, it may start to get dark. Ensure your bike has at least some lights on just in case. We have the full range of Lezyne LED lights in stock, of which the Zecto Drive rear light is proving most popular.

Tyre Pressures
Drop them b more rubber on the road means more grip. Watch out for slippery leaves. Look where you WANT to go rather than where you DONbT want to go.

As you can see, far from being an extension of Winter, Autumn has itbs own very important set of riding conditions and considerations. If you have any questions, or need to kit yourself out for Autumn (and indeed Winter), please pop up and see us at Cycle Art. Webll be only too happy to help.

Cycle Art's Winter Bike Buying Guide

Webve already published a winter guide but with this second guide, we look at winter bikes in a little more detail. At Cycle Art, we have one or two great solutions for a riding in the winter.

Ridley Xbow Winter Bike

Ridley X-Bow
The first option is currently our most popular winter bike, the Ridley X-bow. Ridleybs X-Bow is actually a bcross bike, but those clever people from Belgium have fitted all sorts of rack mounts to make it a thoroughly practical machine for winter riding and commuting. It has the clearance required for fat tyres and mudguards, and a frame that is built for off road so you can ride the trails and cycle paths as well as on the road. The X-Bow comes in several versions b the B#870 Sora equipped v-brake X-Bow 20, the B#1095 105 disc brake X-Bow 10 Disc, or the non disc X-Bow 10 for the same price. For winter riding and commuting, we recommend the Sora disc model (unless you are planning on racing some ‘cross in which case the V brake model may be more suitable) with Tortec reflector mudguards (B#35), a set of 28mm Scwhalbe Marathon Plus tyres (B#33 each) or Durano Plus tyres (B#38 each) and a really good set of lights. Ordinarily, if you buy a bcross bike and wish to swap the bcross tyres for road tyres we would simply swap the tyres with no charge.

Sabbath SeptemberSabbath September & Sabbath Silk Route
Another option we would recommend is one of our titanium Sabbath winter ready bicycles such as the Sabbath September or the Sabbath Silk Route. Both have mudguard mounts and both have good tyre clearance. There are several differences between the Silk Route and September that are worth considering. The September is fitted with M5 pannier mounts for loads of up to 25kg and has enough clearance to comfortably accommodate 28mm tyres with mudguards fitted. The Silk Route takes things one step further with M6 pannier mounts for loads of up to 35kg, and can accommodate 38mm tyres with mudguards fitted. Another couple of important differences are that the September comes fitted with a carbon fork (better for pure road riding) whereas the Silk Route has a Surly fork for carrying front pannier luggage, and whilst the September has calliper brake mounts for standard road brakes the Silk Route has cantilever mounts for more clearance. A typical September build with Shimano 105 would start from B#1999 and a Silk Route with Deore LX would be a similar price. However, as with all Cycle Art bikes, your budget and imagination is the only limit as to what we can build for you.

Giant Defy
The Giant Defy is a multi-test winning road bike that with a little adjustment can also make a good winter bike, albeit with 23mm tyres only. The Defy can be fitted with either Giantbs own Defy mudguards or Tortecbs Reflector guards. If you were to take this route, webd recommend putting Clementbs excellent Strada tyres on or a set of 23mm Duranos.

If you have any questions regarding buying a winter bike, or indeed making your current bike winter-proof, please do not hesitate to get in touch on 01661 835 603 or email

Cycle Art's Winter Guide

Benjamin Franklin famously said, bBy failing to prepare, you preparing to fail.b Winter is around the corner and if you want to commute by bike, train through the winter, or join your friends on club runs, you need to be prepared for the winter months. And remember, winter miles equals summer smiles. Cycle Art has put together a brief but helpful winter guide to help prepare you for the shorter days, longer nights and colder weather.

Ridley Xbow Winter Bike

Get a Winter Bike
If you don’t already have a winter bike, it might be worth while getting one. Whilst it is possible to “winterise” your bike, it’s useful to have a bicycle that is set up to do the job. This prevents unnecessary wear and tear on your “good” bike, and allows you to hang up the carbon race bike until the summer keeping it dry and safe. We’d recommend a Ridley Xbow. Although the Xbow is a cyclo-cross bike, it has mounts for mudguards, plenty of clearance and is ideal for our British winter weather and road conditions. It can also go off road if your commute needs to.

Therebs a common misconception that mudguards arenbt cool and are noisy. However, being wet, cold and miserable or covering your mates with spray and mud is definitely not cool and well fitting mudguards are not noisy. Mudguards are important for several reasons. Firstly, youbll keep your legs and backside dryer, which will make rides a lot more comfortable and reduces the chance of muscular injury. Secondly, mudguards keep your bike cleaner, and can help increase the lifespan of your bicycle and itbs components. Thirdly, your riding companions will thank you for using them b riding in a group without mudguards is selfish! If your bike already has mounts and sufficient clearance, we have a range of Tortec reflector mudguards. If your bike doesnbt have mounts, this isnbt a problem, as clip on mudguards such as SKS Raceblades or Raceblades long in various sizes will suit most bikes.

Durano TyreTyres
Punctures are a pain at the best of times. Itbs even worse trying to change a tube at the side of the road in winter. Unfortunately, you are more likely to puncture in the winter, so now would be a good time to hang up your 23mm race tyres and swap them for some serious winter rubber. We recommend the Clement Strada, the Schwable Durano and Durano Plus, or the bombproof Schwable Marathon. Webd recommend at least a 25mm, and if your frame has the clearance, a 28mm. Continental Gatorskins are also pretty tough, and we have those in stock too.

Saddle Bag & Tools
You should be carrying tubes, tyre levers, a pump and multi-tool anyway, but in the winter it really is essential. With the bad weather there is a higher possibility of a mechanical issue, so a couple of good quality spare tubes, tyre levers, a pump capable inflating to a high pressure, and a multi-tool with a chain breaker is a very good idea. Make life easier by putting them into a saddlebag and store it on your winter bike permanently and donbt leave home without it. Webd recommend the range of Lezyne saddlebags, tools and tyre levers, and multi-tools from either Lezyne or Fat Spanner. Webd also recommend carrying some gaffer tape and a tyre boot for fixing slashes or any manner of mishaps.

Mini pumps look cool and are lightweight, but in the winter you might not be so happy at the roadside working away frantically with a tiny pump. Webd recommend a frame pump if it fits, as it will inflate your tyres quicker. CO2 canisters are also a very good option.

Lights are important for 2 reasons b firstly to see where you are going and secondly, so you are visible to other road users. Even if you are not planning on riding in the dark, the winter in the UK can bring with it some gloomy, overcast days where visibility will be poor. Not only that, if you do have a mechanical, you might get caught out. There are two main types of lights b those that help you see and those that make you visible. Webd recommend:

b” a good quality rechargeable light on the front such as the Lezyne Deca Drive (800 lumens) or Cateye Volt 1200 (1200 lumens)
b” a back up LED light on the front such as a Lezyne Micro Drive or Cateye Uno
b” a good quality rear light such as the Lezyne Micro Drive or Cateye Volt 50
b” a back up rear LED light such as the Femto Drive or Cateye Nima
b” a helmet mounted light

For urban riding webd also recommend a side facing LED to increase visibility at junctions and roundabouts such as Cateye loop light.

Castelli High VisHigh Vis
If you donbt think high vis can be stylish b think again. Mavic and Castelli have some fantastic looking high vis clothing. Regardless, webd prefer to be alive and look silly than be dead and well dressed. The more visible your clothing, the more visible to other road users you are. Webd recommend at the very least a jacket in bright colours with reflective detailing. If you have a ruck sack, itbs a good idea to get hold of a high vis ruck sack cover.

Keep Warm
Sounds silly but youbd be amazed how many people go out riding in the winter in shorts, with no gloves and nothing under their helmet. Itbs not big, itbs not clever and itbs not cool. Actually, it is cool b very cold in fact. Ensure you have a good set of winter base layers, outer clothes, jackets, warmers, gloves, buffs, under helmet headwear, socks, overshoes, glasses and suitable shoes for the winter. It will keep you warmer, dryer, safer and make your winter riding far more enjoyable. We have a wide range of winter clothing from Mavic and Castelli that will help you get geared up for the cold and wet. Hypothermia is not funny.

Keep it clean
A clean bike lasts longer. Why? Riding in the winter places stress on the moving parts because grit and grime damages components. Ideally, you should clean your bike after every ride. That way you will prevent parts rusting and the next time you ride you will not have grit and grime in the components. You can use a bucket and hot water with washing up liquid but we do offer a range of specialist cleaning products from Fenwicks, Muc-Off and Hope. Little and often is the key b especially when roads are gritted.

Fenwicks LubeLube It
Cleaning it is fine, but cleaning products will strip the grease and lubrication off the bike that is required to keep moving parts from seizing or wearing prematurely. We would recommend a wet lube during the winter, although if you are prepared to regularly clean and relube then a good quality dry lube would also suffice. We stock a range of good quality wet and dry lubricants from Fenwicks.

Check your chain
Your chain will naturally stretch with riding but in the winter this can be worse. Itbs a good idea to use 2 chains and swap them over every 1000km. Why? The cassette (your rear cogs) wear at the same rate as your chain, so leaving it until your chain wears out you will probably need to replace the cassette (and sometimes the front chainrings too), which can be a very expensive proposition. If you swap your chains over regularly it will massively increase the life of your cassette and chainrings. Buy a chain checker and regularly check your chain wear.

Keep on top of your bike
In the winter, your bike parts wear quicker. Keep an eye on your brake pads and tyres to ensure they are not worn. If you do puncture, check the tyre isnbt ripped or worn, as getting stuck miles from home in the dark isnbt pleasant.

Take a phone and some cash with you
Sounds silly, but if your bike does break down and a road side repair is not possible, you will need to consider firstly how you will get home and secondly you will need to let loved ones know you are safe. Keep spare money in your saddlebag at all times and always take a mobile phone with you.